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Review | Rotli Crew at The King & Co., Clapham

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Eats! Aubergine, paneer and spinach bhajia; kedgeree; parathas, potatoes and pickle; mango and lime mousse with nankhati biscuits.

This review was first published on foodstinct.com as part of  Two toasty Clapham popups.

“Curry? For breakfast?” was the bewildered response to my suggestion that we take a trip up Clapham High Street to check out the Rotli Crew’s residency at the King & Co. on a crisp Saturday morning. Luckily, after the initial shock had subsided, my eminently sensible flatmate came round to the idea and I’m so glad she did.

The Rotli Crew are settling in well as the King & Co.’s latest short-term resident. A Gujarati potato curry, served with parathas, yoghurt and a delightfully mustardy carrot pickle was popular at our table. As something of a kedgeree connoisseur, I was pleased by the generous helping of warming masala, perfectly soft-boiled egg, Moxon’s sustainable smoked haddock and curried rice which landed in front of me. The standout savoury dish was the aubergine, paneer & spinach bhajia, which was coated in a light, spiced gram flour batter – a great sharing starter for a long weekend brunch.

The mango and lime mousse to finish was wonderful – creamy and indulgent, yet refreshing and zingy. Think set mango lassi, with homemade buttery and lightly spiced nankhati biscuits and you’re there. And you want it all over again.

The Rotli Crew’s brunch menu is not set – admirably, it will change throughout their two month residency in order to adapt to shifting seasonality. I’m certainly keen to return. There’s talk of some Gujarati dumplings making an appearance on the evening menu – an opportunity I’m just not willing to pass by when they’re a brisk five minute walk from my front door on a chilly autumn evening.

The Rotli Crew are serving food every day at the King & Co. until Sunday 29 November.

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